![]() The seam can open up and let a little or a lot of coolant out. Most often if the coolant tank leaks it is along the bottom seam. The coolant is plenty hot (at least 212F but with heat soak it will to higher) and under pressure. With a good flash light look for any leak sign. With the A/C off drive the car around until the engine coolant is hot enough to trigger the fans to come on.īack on your driveway raise RPMs to a bit over 1K and hold until the radiator fans come on. You can top up the coolant tank with distilled water. ![]() Remove the plastic "floor" of the fluid basin. It can take more force that one suspects but while you must tighten the cap down all the way you want to avoid over tightening the cap. Then I made sure I fully tightened the cap. But I made sure the threads of the tank were clean and where the underside of the cap seals to the tank was clean. The heat load of the engine raised the temperature and pressure of the coolant and this pressure overcame the cap.Ī new cap worked like a charm. While a bad new cap is possible but with a leaking (old) cap all I got spotted was some condensation of water vapor leaking past the cap when I shut off the engine with the radiator fans running. the seam between the coolant reservoir and the stem I'm presuming?The tank can leak and there can be no coolant in the trunk under the carpet. Perhaps the seam leak you mentioned could be it. Once it's pushed above it starts spewing out the coolant cap. Car holds the coolant no problem while parked and under 3,000 rpm. My understanding is that if the coolant reservoir was leaking I'd have some puddling in the trunk under the carpet, haven't noticed any of that. Tank is slightly yellow, but I can still see through pretty clearly to view coolant level. There is definite steam coming from the coolant cap, confirmed by the tin foil chimney that gushed out coolant. Might be time for a new coolant reservoir. When was the last time you flushed the coolant? Ideas?Are 100% you certain it's the coolant cap? Absolutely certain? Hoping this isn't a head gasket problem introducing air into the system under hard acceleration that lowers pressure and boils coolant. The leak is definitely coming from the coolant cap. No leaves or anything in the front radiators. Removed the plastic undercarriage and looked for leaks, nothing. I haven't noticed coolant leaks anywhere else under the car. Should I just buy another new cap? It carefully screwed it on, and really tightened it down. Went on a drive, (it probably looked hilarious to outsiders) and came back with a nice puddle of coolant in the trunk where the coolant cap chimney was pointed. I even removed the trunk lid, made a tin foil chimney around the coolant cap and aimed it into the trunk, and made another tin foil chimney around the pressure release valve and aimed it outside. Replaced it with dealer cap, part number ending in 04. Vicious cycle.įigured it was a bad coolant cap, it was the original 00 cap. This in turn turns the low coolant light on. When I push the car large amounts of coolant pour down the overflow hose, onto the ground in front of passenger rear tire, indicating large amounts of coolant outpour during hard acceleration/high revs. When I drive it around, I noticed severe vapor on the underside of the trunk within the sealed coolant/oil area. We don't ship to P.O.Low coolant light came on, filled it up. PLEASE CHECK OUR STORE FOR ANY OTHER PARTS YOU NEED To find a list of all parts available from this car please type 112,644 into our store search To view pictures of the car this part came from please type: Parts Car 112,644 into our store search You are purchasing the used Coolant Cap Part# 996.106.447.04 + Oil Filler Cap Part# 996.107.350.53 ( Marks / Build Up ) pictured -removed from a 2002 Porsche Boxster S Manual 6 Speed RWD(rear wheel drive) 3.2 DOHC 24V VIN# WP0CB29862U663533 with ONLY 112,644 MILES! This assembly may have imperfections and is in excellent working condition and ready to install!
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